1. When I read fashion blogs, I think that the biggest draw for me to add them to my Reader is the inclusion of their thought processes that went into and came out of their outfit choices. Their inspiration. Much the better if they have a "concept"; a story they're telling themselves (and their audiences) with their clothing. Well, no. The biggest draw is when what they say is interesting. "Fashion as communication" is what convinced me of the validity of fashion blogging the minute I discovered it - I want to know what people think they're saying with how they look., and how their interpretation differs from mine.. and I don't think I'm alone in this. Right? 2. The interesting thing about personal use of "the internet" is that it made globalisation happen in the most interesting way - everybody has access to everybody else's stereotypes and shorthands. Everybody is going to see their own personal hurts trampled all over by people who either truly know no better, or by people who truly value their right to unchecked speech over the toll that pain and frustration takes on other people. 3. And just like EVERYTHING, this is reflected in the world of fashion (blogging)! It's pretty probable that, you being discerning readers, you have come across bloggers (or, "people") talking about "appropriation" (I put this in quoties because I want to examine the meaning a little, not because I don't believe in the concept). Then again.. the internet is a big place! Maybe you've missed it. Appropriation vs Inspiration is ages old and evident in every creative channel that I can think of - you've probably been outraged at an example of it yoursef. Were you unimpressed when a budget clothing chain used images found on DeviantART and tweaked to decorate their t-shirts (link lost, bummer)? They pinched ('appropriated') the artist's work. Did you shake your head over Nick Simmons' alleged use of Bleach panels in his comic Incarnate? He copied ('appropriated') (allegedly) Kubo Noriaki's panels. Have you been involved in a debate about knock-off designer goods in highstreet chains or on markets? Stealing ('appropriation') of trademarks. Or have you read Susie Bubble, Native Appropriations, or Threadbared's entries (or featuring of other peoples' writings) on the subject? You should. They're excellent. Each of these thoughtful bloggers have opened conversation on cultural appropriation, and this is one of the most problematic issues, in my opinion, in visual arts. Particularly (or maybe only particularly visibly) in fashion. Fashion runs on trends, and trends run on a never-ending supply of inspirations and changes and experimentation - those inspirations are often cyclical, of course, but they're never identical the second time around. The sixties minidresses weren't the same as flapper dresses. The early nineties Lois Lane business suits were wide-shouldered, thin-hipped and had intricately cut lapels, but were longer below the waist and lacked the peplums than 1940s women's dress jackets enjoyed. Of course, simple creativity is involved, but finding the next thing 'before it happens' is also talked about a lot. Some people invent, and some interpret. That's cool. But sometimes the things that designers or people getting dressed use for inspiration are things from cultures that they are not a part of. Sometimes, an aspect of a culture one is not a part of has taken on a semiotic meaning which the designer or dresser would also like to express. Try the number of couture designers who have referenced "the homeless" in their runway shows and commentary surrounding actual homeless people in the online style industry; "effortless cool", "i don't care but I look great anyway", "the romance of the imagined vagrant's lifestyle". I am sure you can think of a time when, in fashion, an ethnic identity or nationality was visually referenced in order to.. less say something than give a flavour. The number of "paint a model darker" (or not) photoshoots that have been swimming around recently, f'rex. This style shorthand is easy to do - people interested in fashion are probably people who process visuals quickly and it's easy to forget, if you aren't someone to whom an image or garment means a great personal deal, that using an image or garment that is so far out of your personal life experience that it stands for an ideal to you -

- rather than making you think about the middle-parts of that semiotic equation, and the modern-day people living modern-day lives who are caught up in that image or garment's context.. that there are people who have more rights to some images than others, and they aren't abstract or too far away to matter. They're right here, in your internet(s, eatin' ur cheezburgerz?), and they matter. You wouldn't say "that's so gay", would you? Because you have gay acquaintances whom that hurts. Because people who overhear you could be hurt. Because you care about people, so you learn, and you think. Don't you? I'm gonna go ahead and suggest that we try really hard not to appropriate, when we're looking for inspiration.